Hello everyone, my name is Sarah and I’ll be your host for this months Sew Along! We will be sewing up the Ollie Bomber jacket from Sew A Little Seam. There are a few different options, which will provide a few different looks. I will be updating the blog every day as we go along, as well as posting in the Amelia Lane Designs Facebook Group. If you have any questions, please ask!
Day 1: Assemble pattern and pick fabric
Today we will be assembling our pattern. Sew A Little Seam patterns are trim patterns, which means you will need to trim around the edges and tape them together. When printing, be sure to print at 100% and check the test square so you have it at the right scale. Don’t forget to also print and assemble the hood and kangaroo pockets if you are choosing those options. When choosing your size, go based on your bust/chest measurement. If your hip measurement falls into a different size, you will want to print both sizes and blend between for the best fit. You will also want to cut out your pattern so you are ready to go for tomorrow!
Don’t forget to make sure your fabric is also washed, and you have all the supplies needed to get sewing tomorrow!
Day 2: Cutting fabric
Welcome to day two of the Ollie Bomber Sew Along! Today we will be cutting out our fabric and finalizing our options. I decided to make a toddler lined jacket with welt pockets, and a jacket for myself with a hood and kangaroo pockets. When I cut my patterns, I like to cut everything at once so I have it all available. For fabrics that are hard to differentiate the right side from wrong side, I like to put a piece of masking tape or painters tape on the right side so it’s easier for me to see which side is right/wrong.
If you’ve decided to make a lined version, make sure you’re also cutting out the main and lining. You will also need to decide if you’d like pockets on both the main and lining. Also, you can go ahead and cut your interfacing pieces, if you're doing welt pockets.
Day 3: Pockets, Sew shoulders and sleeves
Today we will be sewing our pockets, shoulder seams and attaching the sleeves.
We will start with the add on
kangaroo pockets. You will want to attach the binding, making sure to notch and press well for a nice smooth binding. Folding over the edges and pressing well for a crisp edge when you stitch to your jacket. Place the pockets on the front of the jacket lining up the center front and bottom edges, and stitch 1/8 in along all straight edges.
I know welt pockets are intimidating for a lot of people. My one major piece of advice would be press, press, press! I’ve done welt pockets a few times and these ones have by far been my best ones, and I attribute it to me slowing down, and making sure to press. Here is a video I made discussing welt pockets.
Once our pockets are sewn, we will go ahead and sew the shoulder seams together and attach the sleeves. You will now sew the side seams together. If you are sewing a lined version, make sure you are doing both the lining and main fabrics!
Day 4: Waistband, Zipper and Collar/Hood
Welcome back to day 4 of the Ollie Bomber Sew Along! Today we will be attaching our waistband, sewing on the zipper, and attaching the collar or the hood.
You will want to fold your waistband in half hot dog style and mark the middle. Then you will fold it in half hamburger style, make the middle and then find the center of each of those halves. Finding the middle of the main jacket and match up middles and the quarter points will match up with your side seams. Sew this to your jacket.
Now onto the zipper! The promo team calls me a zipper wizard, but I’ll let you in on a little secret. It’s all thanks to interfacing and wash away wonder tape! Even when a pattern doesn’t call for a strip of interfacing, I will cut and iron on a 3/4 to 1-inch wide piece to the back side for some stability. You would want to measure from the center mark on your waistband, up to the jacket to the top, and then cut a strip of interfacing for each side. I also like to increase my stitch length to about 3 on my machine which makes it easier for me to sew the zipper on. Here is the video I created talking about how I attach my zippers. Head over to the main group, and post your progress on the Day 4 thread!
Day 5: Sleeve cuffs and sewing main to lining
Welcome back! Today (day 5) we are going to be finishing up our jacket! We will be sewing the sleeve cuffs and if you’re making a lined version, we will be attaching the lining to the main jacket. Finishing the jacket is a little different for each jacket. Here is a brief overview for each.
Lined jacket
- Sew your cuffs to your main jacket
- You will want to sew the lining to the bottom of the waistband, leaving an opening to turn it at the end. You will then fold your waistband in half and sew the zipper to the lining.
- Making sure your collar is folded down, sandwich between the main and lining, stitching clear across the collar.
- You will then attach the cuffs to the lining.
- Turn to right side out and carefully close the turning opening. I find it best to secure with pins since the final step is to topstitch.
- You have your reversible/ lined Ollie Bomber!
Unlined Jacket - Sew your cuffs to your jacket
- You have your unlined Ollie Bomber!