Hello all from UK. I am Carol a 70+ grandma who makes clothes for my grandchildren. I love doing pattern tests as they keep me sharp and push me into trying new things. I was delighted to be selected to make the Little Dreamer Tee, such a lovely top, perfect for colour blocking.
I particularly loved that ALD asked from the word go for us to consider hacks to the pattern- who doesn’t love making a design their own? As I made the tops and dresses for the test the thing that seemed needed to me was pockets. I love a pocket of two on a garment and the grandchildren need somewhere to store those special finds when out and about.
After considering patch and kangaroo pockets I felt an inseam pocket would add to the garment and not detract from the design- indeed it could even add to the colour blocking options. I have tried these on both the top and the dress but I am particularly pleased with them on the dress version. If you add to your top just be careful that the positioning and sizing fits with the curved hem.
I am going to share adding a simple one layer pocket but once you have mastered this then you can easily add a pocket bag instead by cutting four extra pieces.
Step 1
You need to cut a small semi circle out of the side of the pattern. Draw your semi circle pattern piece on paper. Place it on your pattern piece and mark the position where the pocket opening will be. My piece has a 10 cm along the straight edge, it is for a size 7 dress you may need to size up or down according to the size you are making.
Tip- Check it is a comfortable position for your child to use.
Step 2
Draw a pocket backing pattern piece. My straight edge is approx 20 cms long.
Tip-You need a bag at the bottom for the pocket to work, but make sure it isn't too deep if you are putting the pocket in a top.
Step 3
Mark both the cut out and position of the pocket bag on your paper pattern piece. The cut out will be used when you cut the garment front , and the bag positioning enables you to match up left and right sides.
Step 4
Cut out your garment from your fabric. Your additional items will be the pocket bag x 2, pocket binding x 2. For binding you need a rectangle that is approx 1 inch wide and 2 inches longer than pocket opening, this can be the same fabric as the dress, a contrast or ribbing.
Step 5
Bind the pocket opening
Press the fabric in half lengthwise right sides out. Starting an inch beyond the opening serge the binding on to the opening with right sides together. Stretch gradually as you go. The binding will extend beyond the opening when on, you will trim the excesses when you make up the garment.
Press and top stitch
Step 6
Place the pocket piece behind the opening, right side showing. Be careful that you line up both sides the same. Pin and tack ½ an inch from the edge to secure this piece in place . [The tacking is a useful guide if you are planning to top stitch from the right side and ensures your pocket stitching matches on each side.]
Stitch the pocket to the dress front. This can be done with twin needles, a coverstitch or a decorative stitch.
This is how my wrong side looks. You can see how I used my basting as a guide.
Now your pocket is completed you can continue with the construction of your garment.
And before very long you will have one happy child!
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