Blade Tank pattern is a shirt that is constructed in a very unique way, and it features a distinct back keyhole detail. The pattern calls for binding finish – I decided I wanted to see if it can be hacked to have bands instead of binding.
First, you will need to do some easy math: measure all the openings and calculate the length for the bands at 85%. The length will vary slightly for each size. You will need three bands: neckband, keyhole band, and armband. They will be slightly shorter than the pattern pieces for the binding, that way the bands will lay flat when you wear your new shirt.
For the neckband, measure the front opening and inside (shorter edge) of the back yoke, multiply it by two and subtract the seam allowance for four seams (the seam allowance is ¼ in).
For the keyhole detail band, measure the back keyhole detail opening, multiply it by two and subtract the seam allowance (2 x ¼ in).
For the armband, measure the back armscye, the front armscye, the outer side of the back yoke. Multiply it by two. Subtract seam allowance (8 x ¼ in).
To calculate the band length at 85%, you can either use any online percentage calculator, or multiply it by 85 and then divide it by 100.
Cut all three bands at the new length, at 1 ¼ in width.
Follow all the steps of the Blade Tank pattern just as described in the pattern, except add the bands instead of binding. You will need to stretch the bands as you sew them on (using the same ¼ in seam allowance as for the rest of the pattern).
I chose not to gather the keyhole straps for my tank. I serged the straps to the seam allowance of the band and then topstitched the band to the straps.
Happy sewing!
Agnese
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