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SAL with ALD: Compose, Core, and Scorpion Day 5

Updated: Jul 18, 2022

Michelle's Day 5

Today we are hemming the sleeves and bottom hem of your top (or dress, in my case). How do you like to hem? I don’t have a coverstitch, so I always use a double needle. I’ve looked into coverstitch machines, but I don’t know that they would be worth the cost for me. I do hear people rave about them though. If you have one, do you love it? I’ve also found it’s a decent hack to just serge the bottom (if you have a serger) and then use a twin needle over that. I’ve found that doing that makes a super nice hem if you want it to look as professional as possible. Are you getting excited? If you don’t need tomorrow’s catch up day, you’re done my friend! I can't wait to show you my final creation!

Rachel's Day 5

Fold up the bottom and sleeve hems by 1/2” and sew with a stretch stitch at 3/8”. It is important to sew close to the raw edge when hemming any garment to prevent the hem from flipping. If you’re using a fabric that you know is prone to flipping it is ok to take a slightly deeper hem. If you have a serger: serging the raw edges of your hems may also help (it also provides a clean looking finish on the wrong side of the garment). For my Scorpion top I took a generous half inch seam allowance and sewed around two lines evenly spaced with a triple stitch on my sewing machine. I do have a coverstitch machine for topstitching, but it is packed because we are in the middle of a big move.

For my sleeves I decided I wanted a little more pink in my top so I added bands instead of hemming and I LOVE the result. I measured the sleeve opening: you can do this with a flat ruler and do bands on the fold or double the measurement to cut them opened up or you can measure them around with a soft tape. I prefer to measure them flat and cut my bands on the fold. For sleeve bands I don’t make them much smaller than the sleeve opening: I usually cut them at about 90% of the opening plus seam allowance and 2” wide. I attached the sleeve bands exactly like we did the neckband: sew short ends right sides together, folded in half lengthwise wrong sides together, found my quarter points of both the band and sleeve opening, pinned at quarter points right sides together, sewed around, then pressed and topstitched.

Don’t forget to share your progress in the daily entry thread if you’re sewing along! Remember tomorrow is a catchup day and the next day is for sharing so you have plenty of time to catch up if you’re behind or join in if you haven’t started yet! Happy sewing!

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