Updated: Jul 17, 2022
Michelle's Day 4
Today we are doing the sleeves and neckband. Usually I strongly prefer to do my sleeves the “cheater” way. I will attach the sleeves to the bodice before I sew the side seams. With this top, there really isn’t a way to do that. However, this is much more low stress than if it were a woven fabric, so it’s going to work out fine.
First, you want to sew up the side seams of the sleeve, RST.
Then, we’re going to pin or clip the sleeve into the armscye. I did this by lining up the side seam of my sleeve with where a side seam would typically go if your bodice had a side seam. I like to start at the bottom and work my way up each side until I reach the top. It’s certainly not the only right way to accomplish this, it’s just what I have found works the best for me.
I used to be very confused about how to attach sleeves this way, when the bodice and sleeve were already sewn on the side. I would get confused on how to properly attach them right sides together. I know that might sound odd, but I had a hard time wrapping my brain around how to make it work properly and several times I managed to sew the sleeve in incorrectly, one of the pieces would be inside out when I was finished. I finally figured out if I start with both the sleeve and the bodice RST and start at the armpit from the outside of the bodice, lining up each side seam together, I can always get it right. For some reason this is the only way I can get it right. Which I guess just goes to show there are often many good paths to the correct solution, not just one.
Now we’re going to tackle the neckband. First you want to turn your neckband piece into a circle. Do this by pinning or clipping the short sides RST, and sewing them.
Now you’re going to quarter your neckband. Do this by:
*Starting at the seam you just created, notch or pin on the seam.
*Hold your neckband with the seam on one side and pin or notch the opposite side. Basically creating two half points.
*Now hold your neckband with the two halves you just pinned opposite each other, but in the middle. Your quarter points will be on the outside points.
To quarter your bodice, you are going to line up your shoulder seams together in the middle, with your bodice front and back to each side. Find the middle point of the front and back bodice. Notch or pin these points.
*Now you can match your two pins or notches in the middle, and on either side of that, notch or pin those points. Please note this will likely NOT be the should seams. You are wanting to find the exact quarter points and usually the front of your bodice is lower than the back. This means your quarter points will likely be on the front of the bodice, a little below your shoulder seams.
Now we are going to match up each quarter point to another, pinning or clipping them together. Remember you will need to gently stretch the neckband to fit the bodice.
And we’re done for today. You are doing fabulous!
Rachel's Day 4
I hope you’re enjoying sewing along with us! I know sleeves sewn in the round can be intimidating, but they aren’t that bad once you get going. With right sides together sew the straight edges of the sleeves and the short ends of the neckband together. Make sure not to maintain your pattern markings on the sleeves so you don’t make my mistake and sew them in backwards!
With your bodice inside out find the quarter points of your sleeve opening and sleeve: I like to use the shoulder and sleeve seams as my first point. If you’re familiar with sewing set in sleeves in the round you can use half points. Being mindful of the fronts of both sleeves and bodice: slide your sleeves into the armscye and pin or clip together at your quarter points. If needed add more pins or clips then sew around. Repeat with the other sleeve.
Next find the quarter points of your neckband and neck opening. Pin or clip the neckband in place, adding more around if needed then sew. Press and topstitch the neckband if you want and we’re done for today! If you are doing a skirted of the Compose and have not attached that yet, do so at this time because tomorrow we’re hemming.
Share your progress on the post in the Facebook group if you’re sewing along to get your daily entry in. Happy sewing!