So this year I've taken up Stand Up Paddle boarding (or SUP), which means I am looking for any excuse to hack a rashguard. So I've got TWO Crop hacks for you today! I used my projector for both of these hacks, but if you're using a printed pattern (either letter or A0) the same process applies.
Cross Hem Band
Are you excited! Because I am! Let's start with the simple banded version.
I knew I wanted the crop to hit just below my chest, and to add a band to bring back some length.
So I marked my pattern 1" below the "shorten/lengthen" line on my projector file (using the comments toolkit). This made the end of my crop hit right below my bra line. Next time I may add an additional inch here, and reduce the the height of the band.
Follow the pattern directions as written for shoulder seams, neckband, side seams and arm binding.
Instead of hemming, we're going to create a tall band.
Measure your bodice, it's time for some math! I wanted to add about 2.5" for length, so I cut my band 5" tall. My bodice measured 16" across.
16 x 2 = 32 (bodice front and back)
32 x 0.85 = 27.2 + .5= 27.7 (adding in seam allowance).
So my band piece was 5 x 27.75 (it was easier to measure at an even quarter inch)
I folded my band in half (RST), matching the short edges, and serged with a 1/4" seam allowance, creating a loop. Then I folded the loop in half WST, and marked my quarters.
Next, mark the quarter points on the bodice as well. Pin your band RST to the bodice, matching quarter points. TIP: You'll now have a "front" and "back" because of the seam in the band! Make sure you know which way you're choosing.
Sew with a 1/4" seam allowance. Flip the band down and press/topstitch if desired! And bam! Your simple banded crop is complete! Go rock it!
Cross Hem Band
For the cross hem band, we are going to follow the same set up as the simple band. I HIGHLY recommend giving your self an additional inch, as the cross over comes up higher.
In my example, I marked a line 1" below the shorten/lengthen line.
Before you do any of the sewing steps, we need to make an adjustment to the FRONT bodice piece. Lay this piece down, folded in half at center. I did mine RST but that doesn't matter. Mark a point 2.25" up from the bottom of your bodice piece.
I used a curved ruler to help guide the curve, making sure to have a "v" at the point you marked on the fold.
Using a rotary cutter, cut off the section below the curved ruler.
Your front bodice will now look something like this:
Follow the pattern directions as written for shoulder seams, neckband, side seams and arm binding. Instead of hemming, we're going to add a band!
The easiest way to measure for the band is to fold your bodice in half, aligning the side seams. You'll have the front bodice in half on one side, and the back bodice in half on the other. Of course, this is the step I forgot to get a pic of. Whoops!
Usually, you would want your band to only be about 85% of your hem width. Since we're going to overlap the band, you'll leave it at 100.
I wanted my band 2.25" tall, knowing that I was going to fold it in half, I needed to cut it twice as tall. So cut your band 4.5 x bodice width.
Fold your band WRONG sides together, aligning the long edges. Press well.
In order for the band to cross crisply, we need to cut each end at an angle. I used a quilters ruler, and measured out how long I wanted the angle to be. I cut about 1.5" off at the widest point. TIP: You want the folded edge of your band at the top!
Do the same for the other edge, keeping it mirrored.
Next we're going to make a SMALL slit at the point of the V in the front bodice. This should not extend past your seam allowance!
We're going to align the angled edges of the band together.
Getting the angles matched here is crucial. There should be a clear overlap, and you want to match up the angles on both sides of the point. You can baste or pin here to make sure they don't wiggle on you.
Now, mark the quarters on your bodice and band. The front is already marked at center with our notch, and the side seams are quarters as well. Just make sure to mark center on the back bodice, and all points on the band.
With your bodice right side out, align your band pieces matching quarters. The very tip of the point of the band will extend just a bit into the notch we made at center front.
Sew with a 1/4" seam allowance. TIP: If you're nervous about the crossover, baste the V first. Then you can check placement and adjust if needed!
Flip down your band and press/topstitch if desired.
Bam! You're ready to hit to the lake!