I wanted to add an elastic waist to the Marina, in case one day I wanted to feel a little extra fancy. Now you can have one too! I completed this hack using my projector, but if you're using traditional printed paper, the same concept still applies. For this dress, I chose the
knee length, but the same process will work with any length option.
First things first, I needed to decide WHERE I wanted the elastic casing to hit. I'm short, but I do have a standard side waist. I prefer things like this to hit a bit higher than my natural waist, but still below my chest. I drew 2 lines (using the "comment" toolkit in Adobe) at the narrowest point in the pattern. The TOP line (which I'm pointing to) will be my cut line for the BOTTOM half, and the LOWER line will be the cut line for the TOP.
As you can see, I have multiple sizes projected, as I needed to add additional width tho gather in. I wear a size 10, but for the area that would be the elastic casing, I sized up to a 14, and then graded right back down. I wanted to keep the more slim silhouette of the Marina, but you could increase by a larger margin for a more blousey waist.
Don't forget to cut 2 of each! One for front, and one for back.
Follow the pattern directions as written for shoulder seams, neckband, side seams and armscye. Making sure to also sew the side seams and the hem of the "skirt" piece as well.
Turn your bodice piece right side out, and your skirt wrong side out. Slide your bodice inside the skirt, matching RST. Stitch with a 1" seam allowance (do NOT use a serger for this step!) all the way around. You can finish this edge with a serger if you'd like, but don't trim off any seam allowance!
Now, we'll make our casing! Pull the bodice piece out, so your dress is wrong side out. You'll press your seam allowance up towards the bodice, OR down towards the skirt, depending on where you want your elastic to hit. As I mentioned, I prefer this to be just above my natural waist, so I pressed it up.
Using a sewing machine, sew a stretch stitch all around your casing, making sure to leave 2 inches open for your elastic. I prefer this to be at the back. Try and sew as close as you can to the edge of your casing, to leave enough room for the elastic. I try and aim for right down the middle of my serged edge.
Next cut your elastic. I highly recommend determining the length by wrapping the elastic around your body at the same place you want the casing to hit. You want the elastic to be snug, but not overly tight. Thread your elastic through the casing, overlap by an inch or so, and pin with a safety pin. This way you can safely try on your dress and see if you need more or less room in the elastic.
Once you're sure your elastic is the right length, secure it by sewing an X or a box.
Once that's done, make sure to go back and close the opening you left for the elastic! And that's it!
Ta da! Now go make one for you!